Passing away of Narayan Gupta (ca. 1935-2003)
Instead of bereaving the loss of our beloved Narayan-da, we should celebrate his life and his writings. This entire week, we will publish his work -- write-ups and his precious art (he was a gifted painter) in the Internet forum Mukto-Mona.
I just found in my collection a superb writing of Naryan-da. I sent this article to Dhaka's English Newspaper. I am confident that this article was published in early 2001 and it must have brought joy and happiness to many older folks back home. Please enjoy this superbly crafted article on "water festivals" of Old Bengal
Sincerely,
Jaffor Ullah
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Water and Folk Cultures of South Asia-particularly of Old Bengal
By Narayan Gupta*
(written in the first week of January 2001)
One of the largest congregation of religious rituals is taking place right now in India. The actual site is the confluence of two mighty rivers Ganga and Jamuna (many spells as Yamuna or Jumna). In the days of Vedas, about 5000 years ago, there was another river named Saraswati, which met at the same confluence. Therefore, the confluence is also called Triveni Sangam - the confluence of three braids.

The geographical name of one of the holiest site of the Hindus was renamed by the Mughal Allahbad - the town of Allah. Before that, it was known as Prayag. Since the decline of the Mughals, the British reigned undivided India for over 150 years. After the country was divided and boundaries redrawn, based on the head counts of Hindus and Sikhs on one hand and the Muslims on the other, the town maintained its name after Islamic Supreme God Allah. It also maintained a mix of Hindus with all the caste systems, Muslims and Sikhs. It is also the seat of the High Court of the largest state of the Union, Uttar Pradesh. This city has produced many eminent persons of the subcontinent including the Nehrus.

The inhabitants of the Indus and the Ganges valley have been worshipping river and seas from the Vedic times in various forms. The River Ganga is considered as Mother God to many. Most of the religious sites of the Hindus are located on the banks of the Ganga, such as, Hrishikesh, Haridwar, Allahabad, Varanasi, Patna, etc. There are year round festivals and rituals in all such places. These are either in the form of a Puja, holy dip, floating little lamps on leaves dedicated to the ancestors. I really do not see the special significance the Kumbha Mela, except that every twelve year it has a special significance and is called Purna Kumbha meaning full pitcher. Mela means fair.

One of the big attraction of this Mela is the congregation of fully naked or half naked Sadhus' gathering by the thousands. They come there from all over places - mostly Northern India and the slope of the Himalayas. After the event, these Sadhus would return to their hermitage. In the Purna Kumbha Mela of 1953, there was disturbance resulting in the stampede of the trident wielding Sadhus. When it was all over, the Mela authorities counted at least ten thousand devotees dead. What a tragedy at the site of the Holy God! Skeptics lamented, people of other faiths ridiculed, faithful Hindus accepted the tragedy as a result of bad Karma. Any way, what was supposed to be an event for receiving God's blessings turned out to be a killing field.

In West Bengal and Bangladesh there are numerous festivals revolved around their rivers. About this time, during the Makar Sankranti (Winter Solstice) there is a great congregation at the Sagar Island, off Sundarbans in the Bay of Bengal. Rabindranath's famous poem Devata'r Grash is based on pilgrimage to the Sagar Island. The obstinate boy wanted to accompany his aunt to the island. Jaibo Sagore. 'I must go to the Sagar Island,' he was adamant. In the end, to save other passengers of the boat from a certain wreck, the boy was sacrificed to the Ocean God. With him went down the priest who led the pilgrims of the boat.

In Bangladesh, these festivals are mainly practiced by the underclass Hindus. One reason is that it is not expensive like the elaborate Durga Pujas of the so-called upper caste Hindus. In Mymensingh district, I remember people would travel to Hoshenpur on the bank of Old Brahmaputra river for dip on the occasion of Janmasthami - the birth day of Lord Krishna. The event is commonly known as Asthamir Snan. Thousands take dip on Buriganga on that occasion, which if I recall correctly is an official holiday of Bangladesh. One of the festive seasons of the Bhati (low lying) areas of Kishoreganj, Netrokona, Sunamganj, Habiganj, Brahmanbaria is the during the mid monsoon month Sraban (July -August) when all the fields are flooded, the rivers and canals merge with the Haors (marshes) and harvesting was long over. The whole area celebrates during this time. The festivals go by different names in different areas. In some places it is called Nouka Puja, while in other areas it is known as Srabani Puja or Bisha Hari Puja. As the names imply, the festival centers on the boat, the waterways and other traditions. Just as the rivers lose their separate identities with the onset of waters rushing from the slopes of the Meghalaya hills, so does the shades of Hindu-Muslim culture of the village folks. They probably return the pre-modern folk cultural days - having no relevance with the Hindu-Babu cultures or no conflict with the rural Muslim cultures of East Bengal. The whole Bhati area takes a festive look. Everywhere there are hectic activities. Friends visit friends. Married daughters make long waited Journey to the parents home, the trip uniquely called Nayyar.

Then, who worries about caste or faith? It is a uniquely folk culture of the poor Bengal - rarely seen anywhere else in the sub-continent. Hindus join tobacco (often Ganja) smoking parties with Muslim friends. Muslims are welcomed at the courtyards of Hindu farmers to share Pitha (rice cake) eating parties. I have even noticed Muslims singing folk songs on Lakhindar and Behula. These are the two legendary characters of rural East Bengal. (When I say East Bengal, in this context it excludes the southern districts of Bangladesh like Jessore, Khulna and Pabna) but it includes Bangla-speaking areas of Assam such as, Karimganj and Silchar and even Tripura.). Then at night, there were informal session, mostly outdoor, of folk songs like Bhatiali, Jari Gaan, Shari Gaan, Marfati Gaan, and drum beating. Paan-Supari, Hookaha, Doi-ChiDa and often Ganja went freely. But, one stark difference from such events of West Bengal was that there was no hanky-panky or alcohol or women related entertainment formed part of the festivities. Occasionally, the staff of the Zaminders or younger men of the Babu families were invited.

There are no deities and rarely have I saw the participation of Brahmin Purohits. These festivals have no relevance with the religious festivals of North India or West Bengal (like Gajan or Rathjatra). There are boat races participated by hundreds of boats and witnessed by many thousands. I have seen no one asking: Are you a Hindu or Muslim? On one such boat race festival at Ajmiriganj under the subdivision of Habiganj in the late forties, I saw not less than fifty thousand people came to see the boat race. All were seated on their boats of different styles, sizes and colors. Not too far was the famous village Baniachong, said to be most populated village of the United Bengal. It produced many eminent personalities. One such person was Ramnath Das, who was the first person to travel the globe on a bicycle. It is said that he wrote his diary in Sylheti dialect, which was translated in standard Bangla before reproduced in the Dainik Ananda Bazar Patrika of Calcutta. On the way back to Itna (under Kishoreganj subdivision), our team had stopped at the village Joysidhdhi (home of Ananda Mohan Bose) and Mriga (home of Dr. Nihar Ranjan Ray of Bangalir Itihash fame).

When the festivals were going on, the traders did also brisk business. At the Ajmiriganj Bajar, I noticed there were thousands of stalls selling almost anything that is needed for daily rural life - starting from thread for fishing net to Alta (decorative color for rural women's hand and foot). There were thousand of vendors displaying their myriad merchandise. These included colorful Reshmi Churi (ceramic bangles), earthen pitchers, sugar candy, rice, cooking oil and even fresh fish.

At the level of the educated class, rivers and water ways played a dominant part in Bangla literature, folk songs and folk cultures. Rabindranath's songs are heavily loaded with such things that are in daily life of riverine Bengal, such as boat, sail, southern wind, ebb-tide, waves, boat worker, flood, golden crops and harvest, ghat, white cloud, boat-wreck and on and on. Like wise, Nazrul's famous song, Padma'r Dheu-re ....., would take anyone to his left-behind home in distant rural Bengal before one could finish humming the tune.

People of South Asia, Bengal in particular, have learnt long ago the value of water, which is the sole source of life, happiness and destiny of rural souls - men and women, rich and poor, Muslim and Hindu. All that is needed is the mind to appreciate and feel the gift of nature.

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* Naryan Gupta passed away sometime in the first week of May, 2003. He was about 68 years old at the time of his demise. He was born in Itna, Mymensing. His grandfather was the Zamindar of Itna. As a young boy he had vivid recollection of the partition of India and Pakistan. His memory was fresh as ever as far the Hindu-Mussulman riot od 1940s. We lost a great soul.

Narayan Gupta used to write from Maryland, America

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